In 1984, the Belgian artist Jean Vérame decided to paint rocks near Tafraout, mainly blue but also red, purple and black. Almost 20 tonnes of paint later, his work was complete. Even today, standing in this vast landscape creates a surreal and strangely disconcerting impression.

The sun has badly faded the colours and the wind steadily abrades the artwork, so local people repaint the rocks from time to time to preserve the tourist attraction. Unfortunately, some foolish visitors also feel compelled to leave their own marks and scribble messages on the stones, as if that might lend meaning to their existence.

© n. g.

Abdella and Fatiha took us to Oumesnate, a village in the Ameln Valley. The historic centre, the “Ancient Village”, clings to the slopes of Jebel L’Kest as a crumbling collection of ruins. One house was still inhabited until the early 1980s and now serves as a kind of historic model Berber home.

Mustapha, one of the owner’s grandsons, gives us an impressive tour. His pride in the meticulously conceived architecture of the old Berber houses is obvious, and his German is flawless. He learnt it all from tourists, he tells us. His blind grandfather, who was born in the house, sits decoratively on the upper floor and performs a musical interlude. He also gives the young couple Abdella and Fatiha a few pieces of life advice, which unfortunately are not translated for us.

© b. g.