On our way to Erg Chigaga, Morocco’s largest dune field, we arrived at the Iquidi campsite run by M’Hamid, who knows a great deal about the stars. The low-range gearing on our truck had stopped working, so dune driving was out of the question.
Hamid was watering his little plants when we arrived; otherwise the campsite lay peacefully on the edge of picturesque dunes. No barking dogs at night, no muezzin early in the morning, and countless stars overhead. Wonderful.
© n. g.
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