Without Aissa we would never have gone to Imziln, and would never have found this traditional pottery. No sign points to the potter, who makes traditional tagines – the clay pots used for cooking here – with archaic tools in a completely dark room.

In honour of my camera, the shutter on a tiny window was opened, but without a very high sensitivity setting I could not have photographed anything. Low-tech met high-tech. Business in handmade water jugs was slow, Aissa translated; plastic containers are lighter and cheaper.

True – and thanks to the lack of waste disposal, their remains fly around the countryside alongside myriads of plastic bags.

The family welcomed us warmly with tea, buttermilk with argan oil, and huge quantities of sweets. Thank you!

© n. g.

In the Tighmert oasis near Guelmim, a charming little museum occupies an old caravanserai. Salem and his family have collected objects from everyday nomadic life, and he gives English-language tours for 25 dirhams. If the door is locked, Salem’s telephone number can be found on a prickly-pear leaf at the museum entrance. For a beautiful place to stay in the oasis, we recommend the lovingly designed Maison d’Hôtes Nomades: www.darnomade.com.